The restaurant Arevalito (little Arévalo) is named after the street it resides on. If you are in the mood for handmade casseroles and vegetarian based dishes, Argentine style, try this sweet little cafe in Palermo Hollywood. We originally read about Arevalito in a story on vegetarian dishes in the Washington Post.
[The head chef states] “People never know what they’re going to eat … I cook with whatever fruits and vegetables are in season and use a lot of grains.” She says that she doesn’t follow any rules of cuisine and that the only label she feels comfortable with is “meatless.”
E. ordered a “pastel” of vegetables and hard boiled egg. This is a casserole dish of layered vegetables. My dish was “circulo crocante.” I expected croquettes, but the circulo was a large toasted burrito shell with vegetables layered on top. The pastel was by far my favorite. The chard, cooked corn, and egg mixture was savory, with a simple layer of cheese. The menu seems to change based upon the ingredients the cook has. The menu also included a Chop Suey and Syrian Rice dish the day we visited.
The weather was warm enough that we could sit on the sidewalk and eat. From a window, we could watch the head chef work her magic. The upbeat and quick service was fun and appreciated. The chef calls herself the “reduccionista.” I highly recommend her work.
Last weekend we visited Iguazu in the province of Misiones, Argentina. Misiones is situated in northern Argentina. Puerto Iguazu borders at Brazil and Paraguay. The waterfalls are amazing on both the Argentinean and Brazilian sides, though we only were able to visit the Argentinean falls (called cataratas). The Brazilian side is said to offer more glimpses of wildlife. On our hike, we saw monkeys, butterflies, various sizes of rodents, and coatis.
Coatis, like scavenging raccoons, roamed the park–eager for tourist handouts. Some tourists were happy to oblige, despite warnings to the contrary. Some even petted them! I strongly advise against this.
These photos provide a glimpse of what we saw. More later.
To me, one of the most appealing things about tango is that it is accessible across social levels and includes all types of people, from lawyers to taxi drivers. It’s a working class dance, initially cultivated by mariners and immigrants who missed their homelands and wanted to experience an embrace–to remember loves left behind, lost loves, or the hope of future loves.
On the dance floor, everyone starts at an even stature until his or her dance skills are displayed.
Tango has also taught me more courtesy and empathy. The dance hall can be a community. Hosts regularly greet their guests who come to dance and send them off with hearty goodbyes and kisses on their cheeks. Milongueros greet familiar dancers as they enter the hall. Codigos are set to protect a dancer’s wishes and pride. Regular milongueros greet elderly dancers with the utmost reverence.
The moments I miss a step or catch my partner’s foot, he usually takes the blame: “No, no, it was my fault.”
I am developing my steps, technical abilities, the weight with which to balance my feet, and the way my knees need to brush as I walk. The pleasantries and courtesies have taught me how to be a more thoughtful person as well.
I found this vintage video of two of my favorite salsa singers–Marc Anthony and La India. This song always makes my heart soar–I have to sway my hips to it. The singers were just starting out as artists when they recorded this song together. La India is holding a cigar while singing, an homage to her late grandmother. Marc is a little flat sometimes, but I still love their vocal chemistry. (I think he’s improved a little bit.)
The lyrics to this song seem inspired by Neruda:
En un llano tan inmenso
tan inmenso como el cielo
voy a podar un jardin
para que duerma tu cuerpo
en un mar espeso y ancho
mas ancho que el universo
voy a construir un barco
para que nade en el sueno
In plains as immense
as immense as the sky
I’m going to place a garden
where your body can sleep.
In a sea as expansive and deep
more deep than all the universe
I’m going to construct a boat
for you to swim in dreams
Are there any salsa (or tango) songs that make your heart soar–that have been overplayed on your Discman or iPod but you keep coming back?
Dancing at milongas in Buenos Aires requires knowledge and respect of the codigos that keep the tradition alive and pure. I am at the most beginning level of dancing–just starting lessons here. When I do get on the floor, I plan to use the cabeceo in the hopes of initiating a dance.
The cabeceo, or the eye contact and nod that tells another dancer you are interested, is the code of tango dancer. It is not only an easy way to initiate a dance, but it is also a way to be considerate of the choice of others.
In April, near the beginning of fall, I went to the Feria de Mataderos. This feria (gathering of arts, crafts, food and entertainment) is an hour outside of Buenos Aires and a Sunday fair. It is held during the Argentine fall. Each week, a different region of Argentina is represented. Dancers and folk artists present regional dances and songs.
Gauchos, Argentine cowboys, perform stunts where they mount a horse and race towards a small hook above the street where they try to loop a ring. This gaucho was the head of the games. I caught him in a mate break.
Fútbol is a way of life in Argentina. Other sports don’t hold the allure or fervor that fútbol evokes here. Two teams dominate the media–the rivalry between River Plate and Boca Juniors. River Plate recently had the distinction of winning their league, the Clausura, title on June 8 against Los Estudiantes team.
Football stars are treated like superheroes. Lionel Messi is the national fútbol hero at the moment, a deft player. Diego Maradona, the fallen fútbol phenom of the eighties, is still revered. It’s impossible to go a day without seeing his name in the news and celebrity tabloids.
E. and I watched a game against Boca Juniors and team Racing in May. It was exhilarating. The game was held in the Bombonera stadium in La Boca. Bombonera means “Bon bon box” in español, which seems to be a nod to the revelry and indulgences held inside. Boca Juniors colors are Argentine blue and yellow jacket yellow.
The stadium can be a little dangerous for girls and women.
To get out of the Buenos Aires and forget the cloying city life and traffic, I recommend visiting the Reserva Ecologica on the Rio de la Plata. You can leisurely walk along the river bed or ride a bicycle through the paths. It’s possible to rent a bicycle outside the park for six pesos.
We visited the reserve at the cusp of autumn. It felt like we had been transported. Pumping the pedals of my red bicycle, I became a child again.
At the start of the trails, there is a bird sanctuary with hawks and other native birds, including at least one owl. We found green parakeets in the trees, eating giant yellow berries and chattering away in the sun.
When you go, check out the brightly colored, independent parilla stands outside the park with others selling handmade crafts and cakes. One stand offered a marionette show. Across the street from the reserve are a larger number of stands selling artisanal crafts and tea.
